Fiji anyone?

As an Indian, travelling has always been a real pain in the behind because of two things - 
(1) the ridiculous Emigration Check Required status on my passport which requires me to get clearance before I travel anywhere (thankfully, in 2009 they removed this check for tourist visas) and 
(2) the fact that you need a visa to go pretty much anywhere. 


Or do we?


The first problem can be rectified if I spend a day at the passport office, which if I'm honest, I'm simply too lazy to do. The second is not so easy. However, there are still places that Indians can go to without a visa or with a visa on arrival. Below is a more or less accurate list of places that we can travel to without any issues (Source is here)


Albania: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival if holding confirmation from Albanian Ministry of Interior stating that visa will be available on arrival. Confirmation must be obtained before departure to Albania.
Azerbaijan: Visa required, which can be issued on arrival for a max. stay of 30 days. An invitation is not necessary but it is recommended to hold a document that shows the purpose of the visit. Visa is only valid for the cities listed in the visa.
Bahrain: If travelling for business purposes visa can be obtained on arrival, but this is subject to Immigration evaluation.
Bhutan: Visa not required for a max. stay of 2 weeks, provided permit is issued upon arrival by Immigration Department.
Burundi: Visa required. However, visa can be obtained on arrival, if no diplomatic representation of Burundi is located in country of origin.
Cambodia: Visa required. However, visa can be obtained on arrival, if coming for: - touristic purposes for a stay of max. 1 month. - business purposes for a stay of max. 1 month.
Cameroon: Visa required. Visa on arrival can only be issued to those holding a prior approval from Le Diligue General de L'Immigration.
Canada: Visa required. If entering from the U.S.A. with a used single entry visa, the visitor may re-enter without obtaining a new Canadian visa, provided the I-94 from the U.S.A. and the Canadian port stamps are still valid.
Cape Verde Islands: Visa not required if (a) Passenger was a former national of Cape Verde Isl., incl. wife, husband or children provided holding proof thereof; (b) travelling as tourist in organized group and holding Certificado Colectivo de Identidade et Viagem (no limit for number of tourists). Individual passengers coming from countries where no diplomatic representation of Cape Verde is established may obtain visa on arrival.
Cook Islands: If visit is solely for touristic purposes visa not required for a stay of max. 31 days. If visit is for business purposes (which may include acting for or on behalf of a person/firm established outside Cook Islands) visa required (which can be issued on arrival), for a stay of max. 21 days.
Costa Rica: Visa not required for a stay of 30 days.
Cuba: Visa required. If coming for touristic purposes and holding Tourist Card ("Tarjeta del Turista") visa not required.
Djibouti: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival provided holding return ticket, for a max. stay of 1 month.
Dominica: Visa not required for stay of max. 21 days.
Egypt: Visa required. However, a 14 days visa -free of charge- can be obtained on arrival, if entering Egypt via South Sinai (through Sant Katherine, Sharm El Sheik or Taba airports), provided (a) remaining in South Sinai resorts; and (b) not continuing to any other city in Egypt.
Eritrea: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a stay of max. 1 month (renewable for another 2 months), provided request has been made by sponsor to Eritrea Immigration at least 48 hours before arrival.
Ethiopia: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a max. stay of 3 months if attending African Union meetings and holding official letters pertaining to the travel. In some other cases visa can also be obtained if coming for business purposes.
Fiji: Visa not required. On arrival a visitor's permit can be obtained for a stay of max. 4 months.
Georgia: Visa required. Visa (of various types and length of stays) can be obtained on arrival at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Visa Dept. at the airport. However, one months notice of arrival is required.
Gibraltar: Visa required. However, if holding (a) a multiple entry visa (valid for at least 1 year) to the United Kingdom; or (b) a passport endorsed "Certificate of Entitlement to the Right of Abode in the United Kingdom" visa not required.
Grenada: Visa not required for a stay of max. 3 months.
Guam: If arriving directly from U.S. Mainland, Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico or U.S. Virgin Islands, no entry documents required due to no immigration control.
Guinea-Bissau: Visa required. If arriving from a country without representation of Guinea-Bissau, visa applications by letter to be made 14 days prior to arrival to: Comissariado de Estado da Seguranca Nacional e Ordem Publica da Republica da Guinea-Bissau (State Directorate of National Security and Public order of the Republic of Guinea-Bissau). The visa will then be available at the airport of Guinea-Bissau.
Haiti: Visa not required for a stay of max. 3 months.
Hong Kong: Visa not required for stay of max. 14 days.
Indonesia: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a max. stay of 30 days provided (a) passport contains at least one unused visa page for the visa-on-arrival sticker, which covers entire passport page; and (b) holding ticket and other documents for return/onward journey.
Iran: Visa required. However, it can be issued on arrival provided (a) coming for tourist purposes only for a max. stay of 7 days; or (b) passenger has been introduced by means of a letter from valid organization or government at least two days prior to arrival, for a max. stay of 72 hours.
Israel: Visa required. However, if travelling in a group of 10 or more passengers and holding prior approval from Ministry of Interior visa can be obtained on arrival.
Jamaica: Visa not required, for a max. stay of 14 days.
Kazhakistan: Visa required. A visa can be issued on arrival at Almaty/Astana airports (provided pre-arranged and approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Kazakhstan) for both private and business purposes, for a stay of max. one month.
Kenya: Visa required. It is possible for a visa for a max. stay of 3 months to be issued on arrival. However, this will cause considerable delay.
Korea Republic: Visa required. However, visa not required for a stay of max. 30 days provided (a) holding visa for Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand or U.S.A. and travelling to or from these countries; or (b) having visited Korea (Rep.) 4 times within the last 2 years or 10 times or more in total.
Kuwait: Visa required. However, visa can be obtained on arrival if coming for vacation or leisure for a stay of max. 1 month, provided (a) having sponsor in Kuwait holding the original visa; and (b) holding confirmation from transporting airline that visa is available on arrival.
Kyrgyzstan: Visa required. Visa can be issued on arrival for a stay of max. one month when coming from (a) countries with Kyrgyzstan representation, provided holding confirmation from Kyrgyzstan authorities; (b) countries without Kyrgyzstan representation, provided a sponsor can announce the passenger(s) to the authorities.
Lebanon: Visa can be obtained on arrival under certain conditions to (a) businessmen and other top professionals residing in a GCC member country (see TIRGL/GCC ); or (b) businessmen with prior approval from Lebanese Immigration; or (c) tourist groups.
Liberia: Visa required. If arriving from a country without diplomatic representation of Liberia visa issue on arrival possible if holding telex confirmation from the station manager of delivering airline.
Macao: Visa not required for a stay of max. 30 days.
Madagascar: Visa required. A 90 days visa can be obtained on arrival.
Maldives: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for (a) a max. stay of 30 days, provided holding (1) hotel confirmation; (2) sufficient funds to cover stay; and (3) onward/return ticket for next destination; or (b) a stay of more than 30 days, to a max. stay of 90 days, provided passenger has (1) a local sponsor, who must inform Immigration at Male at least 1 day prior to passengers arrival; and (2) onward/return ticket for next destination.
Mauritius: Visa not required for a max. stay of 15 days for touristic purposes only.
Micronesia: Visa not required for a stay of max. 30 days, provided coming for touristic or visitor purposes.
Moldova: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival at Chisinau Airport provided: - arriving from a country without diplomatic representation of Moldova.
Montserrat: Visa not required for a max. stay of (a) 3 months, provided travelling with passport (b) 14 days when travelling with other documents.
Mozambique:  Visa required. However, if coming for touristic or business purposes, visa can be obtained on arrival (at airport only).
Nepal: Visa not required.
Niue: Visa not required for a stay up to 30 days provided holding (a) confirmed return/onward ticket; (b) documents required for return/onward journey; and (c) sufficient funds.
Northern Mariana Islands: Visa required. However, if holding U.S. entry visa, visa not required for a max. stay of 30 days, provided U.S. visa (a) is valid for 60 days from entry date into CNMI; and (b) allows re-entry back into the U.S.A. on departure.
Palau Islands: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a stay of max. 30 days.
Puerto Rico: If arriving directly from Mainland U.S.A., Alaska, Guam, Hawaii or U.S. Virgin Islands no entry documents required due to no immigration control.
Qatar: Visa required. The following visas can be obtained on arrival (a) 14 day tourist visa, provided application submitted to airport immigration at least 24 hours before arrival by any of the registered hotels in Doha. Passenger must also hold proof of confirmed hotel reservation and at least USD 1,400 or any major credit card; or (b) day business visa can be issued at Doha airport provided notification received at least 48 hours prior to arrival.
Samoa: Visa not required if holding a visitor's permit, which can be obtained on arrival for a stay of max. 60 days.
Sao Tome and Principe: Visa required. Visa may only be granted on arrival provided prior arrangements have been made by transporting carrier up to 24 hours prior to flight departure. Max. stay of one month allowed.
Seychelles: Visa not required as Visitor's Permit for 1 month (depends on validity of ticket) will be issued on arrival provided holding (a) onward/return ticket or otherwise ticket must be purchased on arrival; and (b) sufficient funds ($150 per day) and proof of accommodation during stay.
Sierra Leone: Visa required. However, visa on arrival is also possible under following conditions (a) no diplomatic representation of Sierra Leone at point of origin; and (b) sponsor or contact person in Sierra Leone should arrange Landing Permit with the Principal Immigration Officer. Details of such Landing Permit should be given to the Station Manager of transporting airline at least 48 hours prior to arrival.
Sri Lanka: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a touristic stay of max. 30 days.
St. Kitts-Nevis: Visa not required for a stay of max. 3 months.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Visa not required for a max. stay of 1 month.
Tanzania: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival.
Thailand: Visa required. Visa can be obtained on arrival (only at Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Hat Yai, Phuket, Samui Int'l, Sukhothai, Surat Thani, Utapao airports) for a stay of max. 15 days, provided (a) coming for touristic purposes; (b) passport is valid at least 6 months; (c) holding onward/return ticket; and (d) holding $250 per person or $500 per family.
Timor Leste: Entry Permit can be obtained on arrival for a max. stay of 30 days.
Togo: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for max. 7 days.
Turks & Caicos Islands: Visa not required for a stay of max. 30 days.
Tuvalu: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival for a stay of max. one month.
Uganda: Visa required, which can be obtained on arrival.
Vanuatu: Visa not required for a max. stay of 30 days.
British Virgin Islands: Visa not required for a stay of max. 30 days



Note: Please double check before you travel whether visas are required as visa rules keep changing.

City of lights

Ah, Paris. 


Most people think that a trip to Paris can cost something like an arm and a leg. The city is reputed to be amongst the most pricey in Europe, and with good reason. However, I went to Paris when I was a poor student and couldn't afford most of the pricey stuff. So here's a  guide on how to beat the famed 'city of lights'.


Tickets
When you're travelling from the UK to Europe, you'll find a host of cheap travelling options. Taking a flight is probably the most convenient from the UK as there are flights to Paris from virtually every airport. I got my return ticket on Ryanair for 20 GBP! And this is during Christmas! Be warned, travel light on low cost airlines as you have to pay a bomb for checked-in luggage (when I was travelling it was around 8 GBP per checked-in bag). The other downside is that the airport is fairly far from the city. However, there is a shuttle bus for which you need to shell out about 13 Euros. It's best to book these in advance online as I found out to my cost on my return trip - I caught the last flight back, the trains were done running for the night, the shuttle bus was full up and I was stranded in Glasgow Prestwick with no place to go until some kind Americans allowed me to share their cab.


Another way is to take the famed Eurostar from King's Cross which goes under the channel. Or you can take a page from the past and do the whole rail-sea-rail route by travelling to Dover, catching a ferry to Calais (use either P&O or Sea France) and take a train to Paris.


Hotels
Paris hotels can be a bit on the...umm...uncomfortable side. Let me rephrase that. CHEAP Paris hotels can be a bit on the uncomfortable side. I thought I had got a deal at this place called Hotel Cosy where I paid 60 Euros per night. The only thing that was 'cozy' about the place was its name. A dark narrow staircase led up to the en-suite room which I had (wisely) booked. I opened the door and nearly cried. It wasn't just that the room was tiny, it was so small that it was hard to turn around in! The window which looked into another window had thread-bare curtains and, the clincher, there was no door to the bathroom - just a curtain pulled across! I was travelling with my then-boyfriend and while it is said that couples should get to know each other inside out, I think there are limits! It was also a bit far away from the city center though the Nation tube station located conveniently just a block away.

The only thing separating the room from the bathroom. 

I would suggest spending a bit more on the room and getting a place closer to the city center. And of course preferably with a bathroom door. Lonely Planet has some pretty good suggestions as does Paris B&B. 


Travelling around Paris
Like London, the tube is far-reaching and can take you pretty much anywhere you want to go. The day/week passes (depending on how long you're in Paris for) are worth investing in as it gives you unlimited travel on public transport among the selected zones. In December 2007, a 2 day pass cost me around 14 Euros but I just checked the website and they seem to have really upped the prices (see Paris Metro Pass).


Taxis in Paris are not too expensive and the starting fare is 2.30 Euros. If you have a late night, this is the only way to travel.


A 3 day itinerary


Day 1
Start off your visit to Paris at the Notre Dame Cathedral. While there is no charge to enter the cathedral, there is a charge to climb the 387 steps of the North Tower to see the magnificent view. If you are visiting Paris on the first Sunday of the month between October and March, there is no charge.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Walk across the wooden bridge to the Left Bank of the Seine and head north. Browse through rare editions at 'Shakespeare and Company', a charming bookshop. Deviate a bit into the Latin Quarter. The heart of the Latin Quarter is the Sorbonne University and apparently the area got its name because all lessons were taught in Latin. Head back towards the Seine and bargain for postcards, coasters and other paraphernalia on the banks of the Seine. 

Stalls on the banks of the Seine

Follow signboards and cross over to the Right Bank of the Seine to see the Musee du Louvre. The walk suggested above is around 2 kms (30 mins). The Louvre is an art collector's Mecca and it is said that if you spend one minute in front of each piece of work, it will take you nine months to see the entire thing. There is an entrance fee at the Louvre. However, if you're here on the first Sunday of the month, entrance is free. Spend the rest of the day wandering around the Louvre. Don't miss the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo.

The Louvre

Day 2
Start the day where you left off the previous one - in front of the Louvre at the beautiful Jardin des Tuilleries. 

Feeding birds at the Jardin des Tuilleries

Walk towards the Champs-Elysees, passing via the Place de la Concorde where you will see a 3000 year old Egyptian obelisk, the sister of which remains in the Luxor temple [the Egyptians have a story of how the obelisk that is so admired and photographed by tourists was given to France in 1831 by Mohammed Ali as a symbol of friendship. In return, the Egyptians were given a clock. It never worked].


Walk on towards the Champs-Elysees and marvel at the shops along it. At the Arc de Triomphe, climb up to the viewing platform for a wonderful view of the city. This is a good 45 minute walk (3.5 kms)

Champs-Elysees with the Arc de Triomphe in the background

In the afternoon, walk back towards the Eiffel Tower. If you want to climb up, the late evening is a wonderful time. If not, hop across to Trocadero Square (Subway station Trocadero on the M6 and M9 lines) for the best view of the Tower. From around 5 PM, the Eiffel Tower is illuminated every half hour or so. Try to catch this as it's quite a show. 

View of the Eiffel Tower from Trocadero Square

If you want to splurge, have dinner at one of the restaurants in the Eiffel Tower. Book ahead (Eiffel Tower Restaurants). However, I recommend that you go on the Seine river cruise. Many of the most famous buildings in Paris are built by the Seine and are beautifully lit up at night. It costs around 10-11 Euros and takes about an hour. There is also an option for a dinner cruise (and a lunch cruise). Find out more about it here. I went on the Bateaux Mouches cruise which is supposed to be the most famous; however, the others are equally good. Try and get a seat on the top deck which gives a much better view of the buildings but cover up well as it can be freezing especially in winter.


Day 3
Head towards Montmartre and Pigalle for your last day in Paris. At Montmartre, climb up what feels like a gazillion steps to the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur. While this is a fairly steep climb, the view from the top is completely worth it. As for the Basilica itself, it's absolutely gorgeous and I'm yet to see a more spectacular church on the inside. Entrance is free, however there is no photography allowed inside.

Basilique du Sacre-Coeur

View from the top

Pigalle is quite a fascinating area to explore. It is filled with the most bizarre sex shops and is home to the famous Moulin Rouge.

Toy train in front of the Moulin Rouge

If you're a Jim Morrison fan like me, head to the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise where he was buried. Even if you're not a fan, Pere Lachaise is well worth the visit. Proof that a good marketing strategy always works (Pere Lachaise), it also houses the graves of Oscar Wilde, Moliere, Pissarro, Proust, Victor Hugo and several others. Just before you enter the cemetery there will be several hawkers trying to sell you maps. Don't fall for it, free maps are available at the entrance. Make sure you take one as the graves can be quite hard to find, especially Morrison's. Here's a piece of trivia: Jim Morrison's grave has a guard stationed by it 24 hours a day as there have been attempts by fans to dig up his body. Imagine that guys job!

Pathway at Pere Lachaise

Eating in Paris
Paris of course has some of the best restaurants in the world (Michelin stars et al). That is if you're willing to shell out afore-mentioned arm and leg to eat there. The good part is that if you stick to the numerous bakeries and cafes that line the streets of Paris, you can have a satisfying meal for under 10 Euros.

Paris street

Drinking in Paris
We found quite a few pubs in the area next to the Chatelet tube station (lines M1, M4, M7, M11 and M14). There are also quite a few bars around the Latin Quarter. Beer can be an expensive proposition. Stick to wine which is available in plenty and you should be fine.




Shopping in Paris
It depends on what you want to buy but I didn't find shopping in Paris more expensive than say, shopping in London. Of course, I wasn't going around buying Louis Vuitton bags or anything. 


Other points of note
I only put one museum, the Louvre, on the 3 day itinerary. However, if you're a museum fan, there are several lovely ones to go to. For example, the Musee d'Orsay is housed in an old train station and has an impressive collection of Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Sisley and so on. The Musee Picasso is worth a visit if you're a fan of the master. Consider the Paris Museum Pass (find more information on it here).


Book ahead if you want to skip the queues at popular destinations like the Louvre of the Eiffel Tower. Paris is a popular destination and it can sometimes take you a couple of hours almost to get to the top of the Eiffel Tower.


The subway is the simplest way to get around and is very well marked and easy to understand.


Try to get an English-French-English dictionary if you don't know the language. Don't think that you can get by knowing English as most locals do not speak it. Also get hold of a map  as Paris is fairly well marked, albeit in French. 


I'll keep updating this space as and when I think of something more. For now, enjoy!

Brussels. Part Deux.

Days 2 & 3.


I woke up the next morning to find that V had gone out to get breakfast. Walked out to the balcony to smoke a cigarette. V lived in one of the old quarters of Brussels - narrow staircase, no elevator, view of other buildings. The kind of old world charm that you find across all European cities.

View from V's balcony

After eating a huge breakfast, V left for work and I set out to explore the city on my own. Over the next couple of days, of course I did the usual touristy stuff. Went to some museums, saw the Palace, Mannekin Pis, etc. But the highlights of my trip were really not the places that I saw. I think it was more about random interaction with random people. Like I was walking down Bourse looking all over for my lighter which was fairly impossible to find inside my sack of a bag, and this homeless guy asked me if he could have a cigarette as well. What surprised me is that he asked in English because its primarily a French/Dutch speaking country. I told him he could bum one if he gave me a lighter. Or there was this other time when I hopped on a bus and I had no idea when to get off.
V had given me this map the city which was of no use whatsoever considering I didn't know where I was going. Anyway, so I asked one of the passengers and handed him my map and he didn't have his glasses and his wife couldn't speak English so she was telling him what was on it in French and he was translating it to me. They had to get off a couple of stops before mine so he very sweetly went to the driver and told him there's this girl here and she doesn't know the place so you have to let her know when to get off. Those were the things that I carried away with me.

People-watching at Grand Place

Market in front of the guildhalls at Grand Place. Each merchant guild had its own building which was named and decorated depending on the type of trade it was related to. The buildings were bombarded in 1695 and later rebuilt.

The famous Mannekin Pis, considered to be a national symbol, almost.

City view from Place Royale

Spectacular 'Old England' building that houses the Museum of Musical Instruments. The building was built in 1899 and was originally a department store. The collection of musical instruments is pretty spectacular too.

The Palais Royal

The slightly bizarre Atomium which is a relic of a 1950's World Fair and now a city icon

Belgium is divided into Wallonia (French-speaking) and Flanders (Dutch-speaking) regions. The Flemish flag is shown above.

Must see: Grand Place, Mannekin Pis 
Must do: People-watch at Grand Place, walk into some of the numerous bars and try different varieties of beer (Belgium is the beer capital. There are several bars that serve more than 2000 varieties. Sample Lambic, Chimay Triple, Faro, Orval and the delicious Trappist beers that come with a creamy white head. My favourite was Rochefort)
Must eat: Frites (French fries are originally a Belgian creation) and Belgian waffles off the street
Must buy: Beer and chocolate!

Brussels. March 2008.

Day 1.


Brussels is this tiny little town kind of teetering between modernity and ages old. Very quirky and cute and full of
secretive side streets at the end of which you discover a really beautiful building or a garden bursting at the seams with spring flowers. I just had two days in the city which leaves one with limited time. Wish I'd got a chance to travel around more.


As I was a poor student in the UK, I was of course flying Easyjet, so I landed in an airport that was outlandishly far away from the city centre. Incidentally, the friend I was staying worked in a building that looked like it was right opposite the airport but apparently it's an easier proposition to meet in the city which is about an hour away than to cross that road.


Being a first time visitor to Belgium and a first time solo traveler, I was a bit apprehensive about traveling into the city myself. I had already had an experience in the past of travelling to a place where no one knew any English and had come off the worse of it. I knew that not many people in Brussels spoke English so when I landed, I was sort of contemplating on whether to find my way to the shuttle bus stand or scream for help. As it turned out, I had nothing to worry about. In the next couple of days I realised that Brussels is one of the most traveler friendly cities I have ever been to and people always seem willing to help. 


So I got in at about 3 in the afternoon and took the shuttle bus into the city. The bus stops at Brussel Centraal which is the main railway station that has links to the subway, trams and buses. There followed a most interesting series of events where I randomly jumped on trains and off trains, on trams and off trams, in an effort to get to this area called Bourse where I was supposed to meet my friend. He had told me that just next to Bourse was a square called Grand Place which was supposed to be one of the main things to see in Brussels, so I had decided to take a look at it before meeting him. As spring was just around the corner, it was starting to get dark already but I thought that I would just about be able to make it.


I stepped out of the subway station at Bourse and realised that it was pouring. However, I thought maybe I could still make it to Grand Place, it is a square after all, there must be some place where I could take shelter. By the time I reached the square, it was raining harder and the realisation that I was carrying a bag and wearing a pair of not-very-comfortable boots kicked in. I caught a glimpse of the handsome baroque/gothic type architecture but alas, it would have to wait for another day to be fully explored. I did manage to get these pictures.

Grand Place filled with people hurrying home on a Sunday evening taking shelter under their umbrellas

A more detailed look at Brussels town hall in Grand Place

The tiny lane leading up to the square

Clearly the dog has his priorities right!

So I made my way to Bourse again and almost ran into the first bar I saw. I texted V telling him where to meet me and settled myself down in the warmth with a book and a beer, feeling all European. I was dying for a smoke but was politely told that I couldn't light up, a fact that surprised me as when I'd been to Europe 3 months ago we were smoking like chimneys in every bar in sight. Still, I thought, this is Belgium. People seem more polite than in neighbouring countries. Maybe this was the norm. 

See the Artois/Hoegaarden signon the left? That's the bar I was first sitting at till V came and fished me out.

Finally V walked in and cursed me roundly as apparently not smoking wasn't the norm. My bad. He hauled me out of there and took me to another bar and proceeded to feed me many different types of beer. By the time I was about 6 down, I started to feel a bit light headed and the rest of the night was a bit of a blur for me. Not a bad start to a holiday, I thought.

Me post six!